How to Change Your Engine Oil

Difficulty rating:
How often:	Every 3 months or 3000 miles
Time to allow:	60 minutes
Tools/ materials needed:	Oil-filter strap wrench, combination wrenches, oil drip pan, newspaper

Your engine's oil is its primary defense against wear. Change the oil according to your vehicle manufacturer's schedule. Change the oil more often if you make frequent short trips (less than 10 miles) or drive in a dusty environment. Here's how to change your oil properly.

1. Can you fit under your vehicle with an oil drip pan and still get to the oil pan and the oil filter? If not, you'll need a set of ramps.
2. It's pretty dark under the vehicle. Do you have a shop light (a.k.a. "drop" light)? If not, you'll need to buy one.
3. Visually locate the engine oil drain plug and the oil filter. Sometimes the transmission drain plug is located right next to the engine drain plug, so be careful. Look for a sheet metal pan that looks like the bottom of a sink – that's the engine oil pan.
4. Be sure that you have a wrench that will fit the drain plug. If not, you'll need to buy a set of wrenches, or just one if you're positive of the size.
5. Don't forget a proper drip pan to catch the oil. While you can use a large plastic container or cat litter box, a plastic drip pan designed specifically for oil changes works best. It will have the right shape and size, and probably feature a special lip on one end to help you pour the oil into resealable containers when you're done.
6. The hardest part of this "survey" may be finding the oil filter. On older cars you can easily see them. Newer cars may have shields or other panels in the way. SUVs often have skidplates that must come off. Check your owner's manual for some advice.
7. Don't be surprised if you have to twist your arm like a contortionist in order to get to the oil filter.

Materials
Before you head off to the parts store or dealership parts counter, check your owner's manual. In it you'll find what viscosity and grade of oil are recommended. It may even give you information on the oil filter. And it sounds obvious, but make sure you know the exact make, model and engine in your vehicle.

Now it's time for the trip to the parts store or dealership. Have a strategy if you're new to the game. Rather than pretend you know what you're doing, march up to the counter and tell the clerk what you're up to. Your car dealership's parts guy can probably tell you the exact size wrench you'll need and if there's anything unusual about the job.

There's more to oil than just viscosity, and you'll find plenty of information about that in other sections of this web site.

Summary: Buy the appropriate oil and the oil filter.

The Job
Depending upon how you assessed the job in Setup, make sure your vehicle is on ramps and in Park (or in First gear if it has a manual transmission), with the parking brake on. Make sure the front tires are properly positioned on the ramps. Follow every safety precaution to the letter. Remember, anytime you're under a car, you have something that weighs up to two tons hanging over you. A mistake here is not a skinned knuckle, so be extra careful. Double-check everything. The car should be on a level, hard surface. Asphalt or concrete are best.

1. While you want the engine warm so the oil is warm, you don't want to deal with hot oil. So after you've driven the car onto the ramps, let it cool for 15 to 30 minutes before doing the job.
   
2. Latex gloves are great for these projects. They're disposable, they'll keep your hands clean and they may even help you get a better grip on some items. Now is the time to put them on. Assuming that you've removed any shields or skidplates that are in the way, slide under the car, bringing with you:
   
   1. Wrenches that you'll need.
   2. Oil drip pan.
   3. Shop towel/rags.
   4. Newspaper.
      
3. Position the drip pan under the engine's oil pan. When the oil first comes out, it will flow with some force, so plan for the fact that the oil may not flow straight down! (Wood chips or kitty litter are great for cleaning up oil spills.)
   
4. Using the proper size wrench, loosen the drain plug two turns counterclockwise. Now get your "drop" light and examine the drain plug closely. Is there a plastic or metal washer on it? Some of these washers may want to stay on the pan, some may come off with the drain plug and, in the worst case, they may pop off and fall into the old oil (time to go fishing!). Be prepared for this.
   Once the drain plug is loose enough, unthread it by hand while keeping a constant pressure up against the oil pan. Keep turning very slowly and check from time to time to see if the drain plug is completely loose. When you're sure that all the threads are loose, quickly pull your hand away while holding onto the drain plug.
   
5. Set the drain plug aside on some newspaper and keep your eye on the stream of oil, making sure everything is flowing into the drip pan.
   
6. While you're waiting for the oil to drain, spend some time really examining the oil filter location. See if there's any shield or skidplate to remove to get to it. Get a paper towel or rag and wipe off the outside of the canister so you can get a better grip on it.
   
7. Before you get any tools, try to unscrew the oil filter by hand. You may be lucky. If it starts to move, stop! Don't turn it more than an inch or so. By now, the oil should be finished draining into the drip pan. Move the pan to a position below the oil filter and then replace the drain plug. Snug it up tight…more than hand tight but don't go crazy (you don't want to strip the threads in the oil pan). It only takes 20 to 25 pounds to tighten it properly.
   
8. With the oil drip pan in its new position, place the strap wrench around the oil filter and try to loosen it. Be patient and take your time. If you don't succeed at first, reposition the strap wrench and your body to try to get more leverage.
   
9. With the oil drip pan in its new position, place the strap wrench around the oil filter and try to loosen it. Be patient and take your time. If you don't succeed at first, reposition the strap wrench and your body to try to get more leverage.

Caution
If you just can't remove the oil filter, stop what you're doing before you do some damage. Make sure the filter is still on tight, then fill the engine with the recommended amount of oil and take your vehicle to a shop or dealership so they can change the filter. 

10. Once you've loosened the oil filter about a half a turn, remove the wrench. You should be able to unscrew the filter by hand now. Now comes the balancing act! You want to hold on to the oil filter long enough to get it into the drip pan, but you don't want to spill the oil that's in it. No matter how you plan, once you remove the filter, the oil may drip over frame rails or other underbody sections. Be ready with the pan. When you've actually removed the filter, try to place it (don't drop it!) right into the oil drip pan.
    
11. Wipe off any drips or spills with your shop towel or rag, scoot out from under the vehicle and then reach underneath to pull out the oil drip pan, slowly but steadily. Be very careful not to spill any oil.
    
12. Prepare the new oil filter for installation by dipping your fingertip into the old oil (you're wearing latex gloves, right?) and wiping a thin film of oil on the rubber gasket that's at the bottom of the new oil filter.
    
13. Go back under the vehicle and set the new oil filter down (with the gasket side up) on some newspaper. Before you install the new filter, check the oil-filter mounting flange for damage by running your finger over the mounting surfaces. Make certain that the rubber gasket from the old oil filter is not still on the flange. Any significant dings in the mounting flange could lead to oil leaks. If you detect any dings like this, don't try to repair/replace this flange yourself. Just make note of it for the next time you have your car serviced.
    
14. Bring the new oil filter into position. Try to remember the angle of the old filter. Align the new filter with the mounting flange and carefully thread on the new filter. Tighten it to the filter manufacturer's recommendation (usually listed right on the box).
    
15. Reassemble any skidplates or shields that you may have removed. Do a little cleanup around the frame rails or any other place where you've spilled oil. Don't get out the soap and water – a little film of oil on chassis members will do no harm. Just take care of any actual puddles.
    
16. Slide out from under the vehicle and raise the hood. Locate the oil-filler cap, usually on a valve cover or cam cover. Check your owner's manual for location to confirm. It usually spells out "oil" on the cap or it may even list the viscosity recommendations on it. Your owner's manual will also tell you how much oil you need. If your car is on ramps and you can't reach the oil-filler cap, get a small step stool to reach it. Do NOT start the engine before you've put oil into it!
    
17. Unthread the oil-filler cap and carefully pour in the new oil. Use a funnel to help avoid spills. Pour in the appropriate amount of oil. Four to six quarts is the norm – again, consult your owner's manual. It is important not to overfill. Put the oil-filler cap back on.
    
18. Now take the time to clean up any oil drips under the hood. Once you've removed any rags and towels from under the hood, start the engine. Do not rev the engine! Wait for the oil warning light or oil pressure gauge to read "normal." Let the engine idle while you get out of the car to survey your work for any drips. Use your "drop" light. Look under the hood and under the car (but do not crawl under it with the engine running). Turn the engine off. Pull all the tools out from under the vehicle. Make sure you didn't leave anything under the vehicle or under the hood.
    
19. Start the engine again and carefully back it off the ramps. Don't check the oil yet. Go to the next step first.